UFO Galaxy over 3 seasons and 7 years ago!

 I've been a bit more focused on my minor planet hunting of late and as such revisiting my deep sky imaging techniques.  I had some crisp, cold, clear skies over the weekend and despite the waxing gibbous moon, was able to get down to magnitude 19.8+ on Saturday.  Here's the UFO galaxy as shot over the weekend.

 

 

Turns out I also shot this galaxy back in 2017, both in Nov and in Dec of 2014!

 

2017

 

2014

Since I hoarded all my old, raw FIT files, I restacked all three years!

 

I can't really say it's all that better but looking at some other photos with comparable equipment, I think I really want color with a CFW but my primary goal is for some MPC which does NOT need color per  does NOT need color per se, so....

Thanks for reading and keep coming back, my goal is to really get more active!

Mike

Decent Saturn from July 2020

I think the secret to getting good photos is to try. I always press the record button in hopes that I catch something unique, awe inspiring or just lucky. Often these sit around for a long time, untouched as I can admit, I don't usually get the awesomeness I hope. The real secret is tenacity. Keep up and find a way to inspire yourself, hard work will pay off!

One of a few below avg seeing Mars from 2020

 As usual I have a bunch of photos I am not as excited to share but am going to stay diligent in hopes of inspiring others and also refining my processing.  Here's one from back in September.

2020 Solar System Bests

Full resolution links on Imgur - https://imgur.com/gallery/iB9hSNa

 

I also included some runner up in the source images below, but here's my annual set of solar system bests, all taken this year.  36 sessions throughout the year including 3 different locations including home, another for the comet NEOWISE and different still for the conjunction.   I didn't count last year but 2018 was only 31 sessions.  Keep checking that weather Mike - https://astromaphilli14.blogspot.com/p/weather-dashboard.html

Previous years are all here - https://maphilli14.webs.com/annual-solar-system-bests

 

Now for the 13th annual edition!

 

 Labled and full res are in the Imgur link at top.

Here's the highlight images including the runner ups...

 

 

Deep Sky Nebula with my planet cam

 Back in July I had a pause between Jupiter/Saturn imaging and Mars where I took out the barlow/powermate and tried to focus on M16 via a gap in the trees.  I was amazed to get some decent results.  Albeit unguided, I was able to get a nice LRGB set over about ~15min before loosing the great Eagle Nebula to the trees. 

Happy New Year!

Jupiter/Saturn Conjunction 2020

Full Res imgur links - https://imgur.com/gallery/uNqIBkl

Mars 2020 Processing Recipie, 2.5x PM edition.

Here's an quick, visual overview of my Mars processing routine

 

All Captures are taken with Firecapture.  Here's a link to the hardware setup I use: https://maphilli14.webs.com/astro-equipment

 

Captures are done with Red, Green and Blue filters in a monochrome camera with a sequence on Mars as:

60sec in Red

60sec in Blue

60sec in Green

60sec in Infra-Red 742

 

Typically I shoot R and B 1st because as I can make a false green if something bad were to happen.

 

Each 60second capture is stacked individually with AutoStakkert (https://www.autostakkert.com/)

 

Sample Red information:

ZWO ASI290MM

------------------------------------

2020_09_23 04:21:39.450 UT

duration        60.002s

integr.        38.6s

------------------------------------

400x408

exp        3.000ms

gain         200 (33%)

frames        12863

------------------------------------

FireCapture v2.6 beta Settings

------------------------------------

Camera=ZWO ASI290MM

Filter=R

Profile=Mars

Diameter=21.86"

Magnitude=-2.33

CM=61.5°  (during mid of capture)

FocalLength=4350mm

Resolution=0.14"

Filename=2020-09-23-0422_1-R-Mars.avi

Date=2020_09_23

Start=042139.450

Mid=042209.451

End=042239.452

Start(UT)=042139.450

Mid(UT)=042209.451

End(UT)=042239.452

Duration=60.002s

Date_format=yyyy_MM_dd

Time_format=HHmmss

LT=UT -5h

Frames captured=12863

File type=AVI

Extended AVI mode=true

Compressed AVI=false

Binning=no

ROI=400x408

ROI(Offset)=808x320

FPS (avg.)=214

Shutter=3.000ms

Gain=200 (33%)

Gamma=50

AutoExposure=off

SoftwareGain=10 (off)

AutoHisto=75 (off)

Brightness=1

HighSpeed=off

USBTraffic=100

AutoGain=off

FPS=100 (off)

Histogramm(min)=0

Histogramm(max)=2

Histogramm=0%

Noise(avg.deviation)=0.00

Limit=60 Seconds

Sensor temperature=23.2°C

Focuser position=26457

 

Here's a small 10s clip from the middle of 2020-09-23-0422_1-R-Mars.avi

 

 

Clipped 10s convert from VLC

https://imgur.com/dYUlRQj.gifv

 

From AS2 save as png to GIMP import as layers then gif export

https://i.imgur.com/2B1EXwB.gifv

 

Each R, B, G avi is run into AutoStakkert!3 with the following settings, notably use of 3x Drizzle for the lower resolution I use with the 2.5x PowerMate

 

 

After stacking the above Red 0427UTC channel looks like this at a stack depth of 2000 frames

 

 

Then in AstraImage I use the following simple deconvolution settings

 

 

 

I use a python and sikuli script to automate my RGB assembly in GIMP after batch sharpening all mono stacks.  Assembly is done with the Blue channel as the midpoint time of capture.

 

In this case the Red from 0427 goes into 0428UTC:

 

 

Of note, this is the whitebalance and exposure settings from the camera, only stacked, lightly sharpened and color assembly.

 

After this process completes for me I sort out the best looking ones and use as many as I can in WinJUPOS for derotating.  This step takes lots of the noise out especially along the edges and limbs.  Here's a sample measurement of the RGB image.

 

After derotating I begin post processing in Photoshop.  Here's how it starts:

 

Derotated only:

 

I try to use as many layers as possible so I can blink compare things as I go.  ALT+L, D will create a duplicate layer dialogue in PS.  Each one gets a meaningful name to me, such as Denoise 0.3

 

Typically I hit with Topaz DeNoise just a bit, depending upon the base level of noise left after drotation.  This case I used 0.3

 

 

After this I will try to use the InfraRed as a faux Luminisotry but actually it's processed with a High Pass Filter.  In most cases I will subsitite the Red channel.  Essentially you want to select all, go to CHANNELS, click on the red and copy (CTRL+C), reclick RGB to go back to color and then back to Layers

 

 

 

Back on layers PS will create a new layer simply by pasting:

 

Then I rename to RasL (Red as Luminosity)

 

 

Then grab the High Pass filter, Filters->Other->High Pass (More detailed explanation here - https://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/sharpen-high-pass/)

 

 

Drop the Radius to taste and edit the layer name with your notes.  I don't like how it sharpens the edge so typically I will use a selection tool to trim it.

 

Often I will also use PS Curves with the built in High Contrast (CTRL+M)

 

Now set the layer mode as Soft Light, toggle it on and off and or set the opacity to taste.  In my case I left at 100%

Then I will take both layers and duplicate and flatten them together into a new RRGB layer.

 

 

Now I hit this layer with Google Nik (https://nikcollection.dxo.com/nik-collection-2012/?awc=18169_1601087977_64434cdc37e2ddfa2a681866ee67a3fe&utm_source=affiliation&utm_medium=awin)

 

Nik's output sharpener is fantastic and simple

 

 

 

Here's the settings I used:

 

Once done, the new layer has the same edge/feather selection removal as the high pass filter section.

Again the new layers are merged and duplicated

 

 

Now I will align the RGB and balance the color

Color balance is done with a stare and compare to Damian Peach's photo from nearly the same time - http://www.damianpeach.com/mars2020/m2020_09_22dp.jpg

 

I noticed the edges were quite mis aligned, likely due to poor seeing.  I fixed that and then used the new edge, w/o the misaligned center portion, essentially a reverse selection from the above.

 

 

 

Color balance was moved via levels:

 

RGB Input UP to 191

RGB Input UP to 229

GREEN unchanged

BLUE Output down to 197

 

Then Saturation was bumped up 11 points

 

 

 

Next I copy the Color and Sat layer into a new layer and set as Soft Light and bring down the Opacity of the top layer to 20-30%.  This helps improve contrast as well as darken the limbs to give a bit more of the original 3d appearance.  OF NOTE, I do bring the LD value down in WinJUPOS when performing derotation.

 

Finally I flatten the new soft edge layer and bring the brightness up to near max with levels.

 

 

The rest is all text assembly in GIMP!

 

 

 

 

Here's the one of the variants of a 'final' processed measurement